Reclaiming the Corset: Fashion’s Most Controversial Icon Reimagined

Once a garment synonymous with restriction, the corset has long stood at the crossroads of fashion, power, and identity. From its early days of sculpting silhouettes and symbolizing status to its current role as a statement of self-expression and craftsmanship, the corset’s legacy is anything but simple. Today, designers are reclaiming this controversial icon—not to confine, but to empower. Through a modern lens, the corset becomes a celebration of the body, a tribute to historical artistry, and a bold declaration of individuality. This is the story of corsetry’s evolution: shaped by centuries, redefined by visionaries, and reimagined for a new generation.

History of Corsets

Fashion history is the backbone of today’s industry, shaping trends and inspiring innovation. Take the corset—once a symbol of status and restriction, now redefined as a statement of empowerment and artistry. While it once shaped both bodies and societal roles, today’s designers honor its craftsmanship while giving it new meaning.

The Eras of Corsets

Corsetry’s roots may go as far back as ancient Crete. The Minoan Snake Goddess figurines show women in tightly fitted bodices, symbolizing power, fertility, and ritual significance. Proof that shaping the body through fashion is nothing new. 

The corset as we know it dates back to the 16th century, with roots in Spain and Italy. Some say Catherine de Medici brought the iconic whalebone corset from Italy to France, shaping fashion history forever.

In the 17th century, corsets evolved to create a long, slim torso with flared hips. During this period, waist tabs were introduced to enhanced curves over the hips, while linen and canvas layers added structure. Shoulder straps and front lacing defined the look—setting the stage for 18th-century fashion.

The 18th century took corsetry to the next level—think Marie Antoinette and pure elegance. Extra boning shaped the bust, and flattened the back. Silk, brocade, and embroidery made stays as luxurious as the jewels they were meant to showcase with off shoulder straps. 

Victorian-era corsetry was all about craftsmanship and drama—finer fabrics, delicate lace, and expert boning techniques. The focus? A tiny waist with flowing curves, lengthening past the hips, creating that signature hourglass silhouette.

The 20th century brought the Edwardian “S” curve— eventually shifting from the hourglass to a longer, straighter silhouette. After WWI, corsetry began to fade, making way for a new era of fashion.

Corsetry Today: Designers 

Icons like Vivienne Westwood, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Thierry Mugler reinvented the corset—turning it from a restrictive undergarment into a bold statement of individuality and power. Today, it’s about self-expression, not just shaping the body.

Luxury brands like Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci keep corsetry alive, while new designers like Alice Pons turn it into wearable art. Blending history with modern style, the corset is more than a statement—it’s an everyday masterpiece.

Milan-based corset designer, Alice Pons founded her brand back in 2019, reintroducing historical corsetry to the modern woman. Using pure and up-cycled fabrics, Pons creates corsets inspired by historical periods, including the Renaissance, Victorian, Tudor, Baroque, Elizabethan, and Rococo eras. Pons’ designs embody a romantic yet contemporary aesthetic, offering women a timeless piece for their wardrobe. 

The designer has since started a bridal collection including her beautifully crafted corsetry skills. Alice Pons Milano has been featured in publications such as Vogue Italia and L’Officiel and, in March 2023, she created a capsule collaboration with Gucci (Alice Pons Milano, n.d.).

Alice, what does corsetry mean to you?

Corsetry, for me, represents much more than just a fashion item—it is a symbol of timeless beauty and craftsmanship that transcends the ages. It is a constant, adaptable, and intimate garment that shapes the body and defines the silhouette in ways that remain relevant through all periods. It is about structure and form, providing a sense of empowerment to the wearer, no matter the era or context. Corsetry’s ability to mold the body, as well as its rich historical significance, makes it an art form—one that bridges the past with the present.

It is a piece of history that has evolved, yet never truly fades, regardless of shifting trends. Unlike many fashion items, corsetry does not adhere to fleeting fashion rules. It is a constant, adaptable, and intimate garment that shapes the body and defines the silhouette in ways that remain relevant through all periods. It is about structure and form, providing a sense of empowerment to the wearer, no matter the era or context. Corsetry’s ability to mold the body, as well as its rich historical significance, makes it an art form—one that bridges the past with the present.

Why focus on corsetry?

My focus on corsetry came from the desire to reclaim the narrative and elevate the significance of the corset. Corsets are often related to a historical or theatrical context, but there is so much untapped potential in this garment as a symbol of both elegance and functionality. I want to bring timeless designs of corsets from different periods back into the modern wardrobe, designed for today’s woman.I aim to revive the old-world craftsmanship and empower women with something that carries with it not only history but also personal expression and confidence.

Thoughts on how the corset is seen as a controversial garment and how you're changing it?

The corset has been a symbol of controversy, often associated with restriction, discomfort, or the societal ideals of beauty from past centuries. Today, we are shifting the focus from these outdated associations to the emotional and physical experience that wearing a corset can offer. For us, it's less about how the world perceives the garment and more about how it makes the wearer feel.Our corsets are designed to be empowering, offering women a chance to reconnect with themselves through an experience of confidence and freedom.The goal is to remove the stigma and allow the corset to be viewed as a tool for self-expression and body positivity rather than as a symbol of restriction.

Favorite era of corsetry?

My favorite era of corsetry would have to be the late 16th century through the 18th century. This period of corsetry created a silhouette that celebrated the female form, catering to a variety of body types, even offering flattering shapes for women with smaller busts. They were not just garments, but architectural pieces that celebrated the body. Corsetry from this period represents a blend of fashion, art, and engineering, and its influence continues to inspire my work today.

Who inspired you?

Art history has always been a driving force, whether in classical sculptures, Renaissance paintings, or Baroque art. These pieces have an inherent elegance that speaks to the timeless beauty of the human body. Designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano have left a profound mark on me. Their work combines narrative, emotion, and technical expertise in a way that transcends mere fashion. McQueen’s merging of historical reference with a sharp, modern edge deeply resonates with my approach to corsetry. Galliano’s flamboyance and storytelling within his designs continue to inspire me to think of fashion as a living, breathing art form that challenges perceptions and transforms the wearer. These designers understand fashion’s power of self-expression and an art form that has the potential to provoke, inspire, and empower.